It’s something to consider: It’s easy to notice the blade, but have you considered the handle? The blade is responsible for the cut line, but the handle is the extension of your hand and assists form. Choose the handle type carefully, to enjoy both your craft and investment for longer.
If you're looking to purchase the finest beauty shears available, handmade in Japan since 1921, contact Edgewise at (773) 844-3387 to set up an in-salon visit, or schedule an appointment to come see our extensive selection of shears at our Chicago store, at 858 N Clark St., #202, Chicago, IL 60610.
]]>These are all locations, where it's too easy for your shears to be knocked to the floor and damaged, or where you could easily hurt yourself while grabbing for something else. Where, then, is the proper place to store my shears? Our best suggestion is to purchase a high-quality shear case. Many shears will come with a case, but these are generally lower-quality, pleather-coated cardboard. They're work for a little while, but fall apart quickly. What advantages do better-quality cases have?
Remember that your shears are probably your most important investment as a stylist. A quality case will protect your shears from damage, and protect your hands from being badly cut as you root around for them in the bottom of your duffel bag.
]]>And shear problems, which cannot be fixed:
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For an analogy, dog grooming. You're a hairstylist, could you groom my dog? While (I think?) there are stylists, who are also excellent groomers, this is not generally true. Stylists have spent years and years learning (both on formal training and in-salon work) how to make their (human) clients look great. The outcome is a direct result of this deep and broad education and practice that makes it possible. But a dog? Hmm..I guess I could try...?
At Edgewise, we have spent a decade and a half working exclusively on the high-end shears used by the professional stylists working in Chicago's top salons and barbershops. It's a huge market, so there's enough of this work to keep us very busy all day, every day.
But want to sharpen your knives? I know a guy or two around, who have the same deep and broad skills in sharpening high-end knives, but it's not us. These knife guys may even say they sharpen high-end beauty scissors. But since high-end beauty shears are structurally different from knives (trust us), is it a $500 gamble you're interested in making?
On the other hand, do you want to have your high-end stylist shears properly sharpened, so they look, feel, and cut like new? That, my friend, is definitely something we can help you with!
(P.S. to put a finer point on it, we ONLY sharpen stylist shears. No tweezers, nippers, clippers, nail pushers, trimmers, lawnmower blades, chainsaw blades, or, for that matter, fabric or grooming shears. Oh yeah, and no knives. ;))
Contact us at EdgewiseLLC@hotmail.com, or text us at (773)844-3387 for questions or more information. If you're in the city of Chicago, stop by our new shop at 858 N Clark St., #202 on Mondays from 10:30-5!
]]>Let's first take a half-step back and quickly discuss the idea of "necessary but not sufficient". Many of the best hairstylists (and scissor sharpeners, for that matter), have decades of experience. Is safe then to say that what makes a great stylist is decades of experience? Absolutely not! There are many stylists (and, again, shear sharpeners), who have decades of experience, but aren't particularly good at their craft. If, during those years, they haven't actively been trying to improve their skills through constant education, passion, and hard work, they stagnate, and don't progress as a stylist.
Similarly, shear manufacturing is a combination of multiple important inputs. What quality steel did the manufacturer start with? How was the steel milled and treated when the shears were being produced? Did the person making the shear know what they were doing, or were they just pressing a button on a machine? Is the shear hardware (the fastener system, the finger rest, etc.) high quality or junk? Has the manufacturer been hand-crafting their shears for generations? These inputs are all critical in making a shear, but none on its own is able to result in a great shear. That is, all these inputs are necessary to make a great shear, but none on its own is sufficient to result in a great shear.
Back to our original question. Is Japanese steel enough to make a great shear? Absolutely not! The steel used is a critical input, and only with great steel, can a shear be great. But if the manufacturer, for example, runs its quality Japanese steel through a low-quality Chinese manufacturer, the result is going to be a truly average, and likely even bad, shear.
When you shop for your next pair of shears, make sure you demand that your shears are hand-made in Japan. The Japanese craftsmen hand-making shears for the likes of Hikari and Mizutani, have generations of experience doing so. This experience will quickly become evident when you first cut with truly handmade Japanese shears. Demand the best - look for the required "Made in Japan" stamp on your next pair of quality hair shears!
]]>At this location, we'll finally be able to show a much larger selection of everything we already sell. This includes YS Park brushes, Mason Pearson Brushes, a much wider selection of clips, razors, and combs, and, our wide selection of Mizutani, Hikari, and Keiki professional stylist shears! Also coming very soon, will be Framar's professional colorist line of foils, clips, brushes, and containers. Stay tuned!
I will be at this location on Mondays only for now - call me at the number below if you're going to stop by. I will be available Mondays 10:30-5 for while-you-wait and drop-off shear sharpening. (The other days of the week, I'll still be out and about sharpening and selling, as usual, in and around Chicago). Text me at 773-844-3387 if you have questions or want to give me a heads-up that you're going to stop by.
]]>1) Opposing-handle or level-set design (figure 1). Both handles are the same length. As the stylist cuts with opposing-handle shears, the cutting finger and thumb are in alignment. Since the thumb is being forced back slightly, many stylists find these shears to be less comfortable that offset-handle shears.
2) Semi-Offset or Offset shears (figure 2). The finger blade is slightly longer in distance from the pivot to the back of the finger ring, than is the thumb blade, which is slightly shorter. Offset-handle shears are a much more common style of shear, because many stylists find them to be more comfortable. Why? Because the thumb does not need to move as far while cutting as it would with opposing-handle shears.This reduced distance of travel reduces stress on the thumb tendon, and helps reduce the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome.
So which is best? As with so many things, that depends entirely on which shear YOU find to be most comfortable in your hand while cutting. Being able to recognize the difference between these two styles of shears will help immensely in narrowing down your choice of shears, next time you're buying a new pair of shears.
Figure 1 (Mizutani Retro Shear showing a classic opposing-handle design)
Figure 2: Mizutani "Twig" showing an offset handle design
Figure 3: Image showing difference in handle length, and how this affects whether the shear is level-set or offset.
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This coloring is a final layer or coating applied to an otherwise standard shear. This coating is generally a titanium finish, but can also be a painted powder-coat on the shear. Because this color is an external coating, these colors can be removed. [If your not sure, examine a colored shear at the very edge. You'll be able to see where a thin line of the coloring has been removed in the factory's final sharpening process.] The coloring on the shears will also be removed later, when you're having them sharpened. This will happened whether the sharpening is done by the factory, or by a local sharpener.
Is there an advantage to purchasing shears with this colored coating? If you've found that your skin is sensitive to the metals in the shear, then definitely! A nickel sensitivity, for instance, would quickly point you towards coated shears.
Otherwise, we don't feel that there is a particular benefit to purchasing colored shears - unless you think they look better. At Edgewise, we tend to lean towards classic, un-coated, professional shears, but do also sell a wide selection of black, powder-coated shears through our Mizutani scissor line. Note, however, that the difference between a black Mizutani Acro-K, and a polished chrome Acro-K is exactly zero - except the $50 cost of the shear, which is essentially just the cost of applying the matte black finish.
Is a colored shear better for you? If you have an allergy to the metals in the shear, then definitely! Otherwise, yes, if you like the look better. Remember, however, that the color is just a coating, and will be removed by any sharpening process, which will also change the look of the shear over time.
]]>This post will describe the three main types of fastener systems, and give pros and cons of each. This should help you pick the best shear for you next time you're in the market for new shears.
1. Screw (usually a flat-head screw, but occasionally can also be a Philips-head screw)
Disadvantages:
Adjustment tools for a standard screw
2. Clicker- or finger-dial
Advantages:
Disadvantages
Specialty fastener system
Advantages
Disadvantages
Adjustment tools for a specialty fastener
Overall, each of the fastener systems described above has advantages and disadvantages. When selecting a shear, the stylist should be aware of these pros and cons to help them select the shear, which is right for them.
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]]>In the most simple terms, when salespeople talk about shear length, they are (or they should be) talking about the overall length of the shear. This is the length of the shear from the tips, to the furthest point on the finger ring, but not including the finger rest. [We don't include the length of the rest in the measurement, because in many cases it is removeable, and the overall length of the shear shouldn't depend on whether the stylist or barber has removed the rest or not.]
Also important in the shear's measurement, is the length of the blade. The blade length is the length of the shear from the tips of the shears, to the center of the pivot. Many crane-handle shears (like on the Hikari #B2 shown in the picture you saw when you clicked into this post, or on the Mizutani Acro-K shown at the bottom of the page) have a pivot, which is located closer to the tips than a semi-crane (shown in the picture of the Hikari E-Series shear, directly below), or a levelset shear, and so will have a shorter blade length. The length of the blade will affect both the cut and feel of the shears. When trying out a new shear compare the two to see which one feels more comfortable to you.
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These simple week-end steps will ensure your shears are functioning properly which will maximize your longevity in the beauty industry, will allow you to serve your clients in the best way possible, will maximize the life of your shears, and will help keep at bay repetitive hand motion injuries so many stylists and barbers struggle with.
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YS Park sells the finest stylist brushes available on the market. In order to prolong the life of your YS Park brush, you should follow these important care instructions: - Disinfect your brush daily, or as required by your licensing authority. We recommend using an ultraviolet light and a combination of washing with a mild detergent and warm water. - When washing, do not soak your brush. Additionally, allow them to completely air dry away from the sun prior to use. The brushes are made of wood and natural fibers, and so sudden changes in moisture can make the wood crack. - Do not disinfect using Barbicide. The chemical can damage the wood and bristles. - When using your brush with your blow dryer, remember to not bury the dryer’s nozzle into the bristles of the brush, as the intense heat can burn the brush's hair and bristles. To keep is from happening, hold dryer's nozzle 1.5-2.0 inches away from the brush. |
- Combs are made of heat- and stain-resistant Polythermide Ultem-Plastic, an exceptionally durable and flexible material, ideal for sectioning and combing.
- To disinfect, immerse in Barbicide, and then remove and rinse with water before storing. Do not store in Barbicide for longer than an hour, as the chlorine content of the solvent can lead to stress cracking and breaking, if exposure is prolonged.
Comb Selection:
- YS Park combs come in many sizes, tooth shapes, tooth lengths & tooth textures. Each one is carefully designed for a specific purpose and application.
- Select your comb based on the hair type, your cutting style, and the hair design you're trying to create. For example, if your client has thick, curly hair do not use the fine cutting comb, or if you tend to bend the comb while holding, choose our wider-spine model.
]]>1) Is the shear you're trying out comfortable? If the shears aren't comfortable when you try them out, they're unlikely to become more comfortable as you use them. Aircutting at a trade show doesn't show much, and looking at a picture of a shear online shows even less.
2) Is the shear the one you actually need? Don't select your shear, just because they have a colored coating, have a rhinestone-encrusted adjustment knob, come with a free flatiron and thinner, or have a fancy blade shape. Pick a shear, which is going to help you execute your vision. Critical in this are that the shear is made of a high-quality metal, is well-made, and is of a length and shape that will help you do better work for your clients every day. Don't be distracted by fancy shapes, fancy colors, fancy adjustment knobs, or freebies.
3) Most difficult, is the shear well-made and free of manufacturing defects? This is exceptionally difficult for a stylist to determine, and the stylist should either be working with a vendor they trust, or the seller must have a liberal returns policy. Ideally, the stylist will be able to work with a salesperson, who's trusted, and who has a solid track record of supplying dependably high-quality shears to the people they work with. [Ask around to other local stylists, at local trade shows, or through online reviews to identify these companies and salespeople.]
Lastly, if the shear you purchased doesn't feel perfect, it should immediately be returned. I'm often surprised how often a shear that doesn't work correctly out of the box (it's crunchy, it folds hair, it pinches hair, etc.) isn't immediately returned to the vendor, and months later, the stylist is still struggling with the shears that were never right in the first place.
These points will get you a good start on selecting the best shear for you. Have additional questions? Contact us, and we'll do our best to help!
Firstly, whether a shear is right- or left-handed, when the shear is held in the correct hand, the natural weight of your hand will have you pushing gently with your thumb into the thumb ring of the shear and pulling gently with your index finger on the top (finger) ring. Whether you're holding a right-handed shear in your right hand or a (true) left-handed shear in your left hand, this gentle thumb and finger pressure will pull the blades together, making them cut better.
If, however, you switch the shear to your other hand, the gentle pushing of your thumb and pulling of your finger will actually separate the two cutting blades as you close them, making them cut worse, or not cut at all.
Lefty stylists, who are told that reversing the screw set on their shears converts them from a right-handed shear into a left-handed one, are not being told the truth. A right-handed shear with the screw set reversed is exactly that - a right-handed shear, with a reversed screw set. The shears will still bend and fold hair just like a regular right-handed shear would - the screw set is just now facing your palm instead of facing away from it.
At Edgewise, we try to provide our stylists with exactly the professional tools they want and need. If a salesperson is telling you something about they shears they're looking to sell you that doesn't make sense or you don't understand, or even if you just have general questions about your shears, contact us at edgewisellc@hotmail.com, and we'll get you an answer.
3. Shear length. Like standard cutting shears, thinning, blending, and notching shears come in different lengths. These lengths generally range from short (5.0"-5.5") to long (6.0-6.5"). The stylist or barber should select a shear that gives them good control without feeling too long or short.
In summary, by looking at the length of the shear, the cut percentage, and the tooth pattern of the thinning or blending shear, the barber or stylist should be able to select a shear that best suits their needs.
]]>Overall, understanding both what your salon expects, and what combination of work you expect to be doing in any given day will help you determine the "ideal" length of shear you should be shopping for. This will provide an excellent starting point for which shears you should be considering in your search.
]]>In our experience, the Japanese still make the best shears. You will be able to see "Made in Japan", or "Handmade in Japan" right on the shears - manufacturers are very proud of this fact! These shears include, among others, Hikari and Mizutani shears. These shears are made of exotic metals, using solid hardware (the screwset, finger rest, etc.), and top-quality hand craftsmanship. This quality doesn't come cheap, but high-quality never does, and is worth it for stylists willing to spend the money.
Chinese/Taiwanese-made shears are inconsistent quality-wise, but are (usually) also usually relatively inexpensive.These include Centrix and Joewell and other mass-market shears.
German shears (like Tondeo, Jaguar, and Fromm) are made of good-quality metal, but often badly made, and are not recommended.
Also not recommended are shears, which don't a show any country of origin. These include shears from Olivia Garden (inexpensive, but inconsistent quality), and Hattori Hanzo (often poor quality with an $800-1200 price tag?? Ugh! Who cares if they take payments??). For this discussion, no-name shears and Chinese-made ones are essentially the same.
Pakistani shears are generally inexpensive but badly made. Not recommended.
Is this list 100% accurate? Of course not! Stylists may occasionally find a great Taiwanese shear, or a crummy one marked "Japan". But if you think of it as a game of chance, I'd bet a lot more of my money on a shear labeled "Made in Japan", than on one where the manufacturer didn't even bother to mark the country of origin!
As always, working with a shear professional who knows you and your needs, is always your most valuable resource. But if you're at a trade show, looking at a case full of shears, the shear's country of origin can provide a valuable clue to how good or bad the shears are!
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1) Comfort. Above all, pick a shear that feels like a natural extension of your hand. You might learn to like a shear, but you might not. It's an awful lot of money to spend in the hopes you learn to like the shear.
2) Length. Generally, smaller shears (4.5"-5.5" lengths) provide better control, but you'll need to make more cuts, so it can be harder to get long, straight lines. Long shears (6.0" and up) let you make fewer cuts, making it easier to get longer straight lines, but you lose some accuracy, as well. Ask senior stylists at your salon what they recommend!
3) Quality vs cost. At one point, high quality and a high cost for shears went hand-in-hand. Then shear companies caught on, realizing that stylists who had paid a lot for their shears would assume they're great shears, too. This isn't necessarily the case - now there are lots of really expensive shears that aren' particularly well-made. Here, you'll need to depend on someone you trust. A quality, top-tier sharpener, who works exclusively on sharpening beauty shears is an excellent resource. Pick their brain for the shears THEY like best. Chances are, they can point you toward a great shear that (hopefully) doesn't cost you an arm and a leg.
This will only get you started, of course, but if you have questions, feel free to drop us a line - we'll do everything we can to provide you with honest feedback
Damaging your hair shears at the wrong time (is there ever a right time??) can put you out of business until you're able to get them sharpened, possibly costing you thousands of dollars. For this reason, we at Edgewise always recommend that stylists have AT LEAST one pair of quality shears as a backup. (Check out our great options! https://edgewise-sharpening-pro-tools.myshopify.com/collections/all)
But accidents do happen sometimes, and your shears get damaged. What should you do?
1) If they're Hikari shears, contact HKR at (800)255-2705 for information on having your Hikari's sharpened
2) For all other brands of salon shears (sorry, we don't do anything but hair shears and thinners), contact the professionals at Edgewise at (773) 844-3387 to schedule an in-salon sharpening appointment (sorry, Chicago-area stylists only!).
Weekly Lubrication:
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